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Bulkogi Korean BBQ, a new truck to hit the Durham scene, transports Korean-style tacos, a popular California trend, to the South. Jin and Jenny So, with the help of their teenage daughter Christine, wheel out homemade Korean plates and fusion dishes six days a week at the Wachovia parking lot on Ninth Street in Durham. (Hours are Monday–Thursday 5–9 p.m., Friday 6–9 p.m., Saturday 5–9 p.m.)
Bulkogi is a traditional Korean-style beef, marinated in a variety of ingredients including soy sauce, garlic and sesame oil.
Spicy pork tacos, the most saucy of the tacos, are a favorite, with chunks of marinated, grilled pork atop a corn tortilla. (The tortillas are store-bought at El Mandado in Raleigh.) The bulkogi beef taco is sweeter, and the barbecue chicken is both sweet and sour, with a hunk of kimchi on top.
Jenny, who cooks all the food, is tight-lipped about her secret ingredients. But with Christine translating, she did tell me that the added sweetness in the kimchi is not from sugar and that she's conscious to use natural ingredients.
"She makes a new batch of kimchi every week," says Christine. "There are a lot of ingredients added to the cabbage, like chili powder, onions, garlic. My mom likes to add a little sweetness, so she'll put in ground apples or grapes."
The most traditional menu items are this summer's specials. The Bi Bim Bap is rice topped with shiitake mushrooms, soybean sprouts, spinach, carrots, sometimes squash and egg, then drizzled with another from-scratch secret recipe: a fiery red-orange hot sauce. The Kimchi Bok Keum Bap combines rice, bulkogi and vegetables in a stir-fry. Both plates are $10; cash only.
If you haven't ventured to Sam's Quik Shop in Durham to visit the red school bus, or Indian Food on Wheels, hightail it over there. Michael Gomes' food is nothing new to the area. He owned Taste of India in Raleigh, Kashmir and Kebab and Curry in Durham and helped start Sitar Indian Palace, which his wife's family now runs.
But the truck seems to allow his talent to flourish. Spices shine in each dish. Ginger and garlic mesh perfectly into a sweet and savory combination. When a cardamom pod hits your teeth, the flavor bursts into your mouth, complemented by the graceful, clean taste of cilantro. Compared to baigan bhartha and saag paneer I've had at other restaurants, Gomes' versions reign. The eggplant and the spinach in the dishes are cooked without additives like broccoli paste or onions, a practice Gomes says he's witnessed in some restaurants.
And while his samosas seem to be on permanent hiatus (too much work, he says), the aloo tiki chaat—extra spicy chickpeas over potato cakes, drizzled with yogurt and sprinkled with chopped cilantro and onion—is a fine replacement.
The menu—hand-written on a whiteboard at the window—changes twice daily for lunch and dinner. Gomes cooks all day long, serving around 120 to 150 people a day.
If you're tempted to choose a beverage from Sam's monstrous beer selection to accompany your meal, Sam's employee Jamie Guptill recommends a hoppy IPA to counteract the spice. I tried a Sisters of the Moon from Kinston-based Mother Earth Brewing, and it balanced the spicy curry dish nicely.
Gomes shares the truck with Taqueria Rubio. He opens at 11 a.m., and the taqueria picks up the truck at 7:30 p.m. every day except Tuesday, when Gomes stays at Sam's until 9 p.m.
The finest day for food truck hopping is Saturday. A litany of trucks turn out for the Durham Farmers' Market, Johnny's in Carrboro and summer street festivals.
The smiles of an eager crowd reflect off Daisy Cakes' 1978 Airstream trailer every Saturday morning at Foster and Greer in Durham, as folks line up for the famed cupcakes of Tanya Catolos. A pastry chef at the Washington Duke Inn, Catolos works 15 to 20 extra hours per week to prepare hundreds of nostalgic treats. Her husband, Konrad, a chef at Piedmont, helps run the operation.
Daisy Cakes are distinctly gourmet. The dense cake maintains a fluffiness, as does the frosting. The chocolate frosting is whipped into an airy swirl, and the cream cheese frosting is flavorful while remaining light, expertly topping off a classic red velvet cake.
But it's the cupcake of the week that really gets people talking.
"I think the most innovative one we've done is bacon and eggs," Catolos says. "It's a maple cupcake with cream cheese frosting, a lemon cream filling so it looks like an egg, and we do candied bacon as a garnish. People love it."
Stay tuned for strawberry rhubarb this summer (also available in flaky Pop't Arts for breakfast).
The Liberación Juice Station captivates the community wherever it may roll. Find Zulayka Santiago and her green bus every Saturday morning at the Durham Farmers' Market and around the Triangle at music festivals. Her "shot" of wheatgrass, ginger and lemon quickly turned into top foodie gossip at this past spring's Shakori Hills Music Festival ("I heard it gives you mad energy!"). She shares her wheatgrass wholesale order with Carrboro Raw's Nice Pulido (they get it from an organic farm in Mint Hill, N.C.), as well as large produce orders from Eastern Carolina Organics that they couldn't get through individually in a week.
What smoothie should you try first?
"It's been a tie between Old School (local strawberries, blueberries, banana and orange juice) and Green Liberación (local kale, bananas, ginger, raw almonds, flaxseed, prunes, apple juice)," she says. "Older folks will try the signature smoothie, but a green, funky-looking drink doesn't appeal to everybody. The fruity option is a good standby."
Santiago used to direct El Pueblo, Inc., Raleigh's largest nonprofit organization focused on Latinos, and a community spirit is inherent in her work. If there's a lull on the bus, she'll slip out for a few seconds. Decked out in a sparkly headpiece, colorful dress and patterned tights, she'll swirl a hula-hoop around her hips or swoon over a neighbor's baby.
"It's all part of decolonizing the imagination for me," she says. "This whole business has been an exercise in that, affording myself the freedom to embrace joy as my life's work. Any excuse for me to put on glitter and a costume, and I'm all over it. Some people limit that to childhood, but I think part of us reclaiming our ability to dream is to be able to tap into the whimsical side of ourselves and the magic that's available to us in our everyday life. It's reflected in the color of the bus, in the product I'm creating, reflected in my tights and my hats and every little detail."
Santiago, a native of Puerto Rico, says her mission is health-conscious.
"Part of me launching this business as a Latina and woman of color is recognizing our addiction to sugar," she says. "I come from a lineage of diabetes—my grandmother, my mother, my sister. It's about raising the level of health consciousness, to be able to identify how addicted to sugar we are and try to wean off of it."
Any of her presweetened drinks are lightly sweetened with all-natural products like agave nectar and stevia drops. For a lighter drink, try an herbal tea infused with a kick of ginger.
Once you've checked out Durham in the morning, head to Carrboro. Parlez-Vous Crepe is parked at Johnny's until 2 p.m. You'll find Jody Argote there, serving a long line of customers (sometimes the wait is 30 minutes) and gabbing in French all the while. A former French professor, Argote spent time in France as a Fulbright scholar and apprenticed at a friend's creperie.
Both savory and sweet, Argote's crepes are as mobile as her truck, decadence neatly wrapped into handheld wax paper cones designed by her husband. They dole out at least 200 crepes every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
While the crepe with seasoned local fried egg, spinach, caramelized onions and cheddar is a standout, the monthly specials include innovative ways to use local, seasonal ingredients. Asparagus thus far has been a personal favorite. This month, the special combines basil from Dutch Buffalo Farm with fresh mozarella, roma tomatoes and cracked black pepper for $8; in July, Argote adds a special with homemade peach salsa made from local fruit.
Don't go to Johnny's looking for a hearty crepe on July 5; Parlez-Vous will be at the Festival for the Eno. New weekly locations include Durham's Third Friday Art Walk at Golden Belt from 6 to 9 p.m. and the Saxapahaw Farmers' Market on Saturdays from 5 to 8 p.m.
Venture to Wake Forest on Sunday, just across the Raleigh border at Fonville Road next to Paddle Creek Outfitters. At a mobile trailer modeled on a log cabin, you'll find Ivan Perez working his six-rack barbecue pit that sits on the outside part of the truck. Habana Blues BBQ (9745 Fonville Road) specializes in smoked Eastern style 'cue, ribs, chicken and a Cuban sandwich made with roast pork.
Perez is of Cuban descent and was raised in Chicago, where he ran a poultry processing plant and didn't know anything about "any damn barbecue."
"When I bought the business, the gentleman I bought it from didn't give me any secrets, any tips. I've had to tweak it, put my flavor in it," he said. "Let me tell you, it was hard for me to do barbecue down here. I never in my wildest dreams would have thought I would be doing this for a living, honest to God. But now that I'm doing it, I really enjoy it."
He toyed with different recipes before settling on his vinegar-based version. The smoked cooking technique gives it real flavor. Perez gets to the truck at 3:30 a.m. every day to start the slow cooking, ready by 10 a.m., opening time. He's there till 6 p.m., selling to fisherman, kayakers and families with large takeout orders, selling up to 200 pounds of 'cue on the weekends, double that on a holiday, not including the juicy ribs and chicken.
"There are a lot of Southerners, when they hear my accent, they say, 'What the heck are you doing BBQ for?'" says Perez. "A Cuban from Chicago doing Eastern Carolina barbecue? And they can't put two and two together. So I grab a sample cup and I say, 'Just try it.' About 98 percent of the people come back and say, 'I'll take a sandwich' or 'Give me a pound.'"
His wife, Ana Mirka, helps with the Cuban-style dishes, including the pressed Cuban sandwich made with roasted pork, a Spanish rice with pigeon peas (native to her Puerto Rico) and a fricase de pollo, which is chicken marinated and cooked in a sauce based in tomatoes, beer and red wine, for catering orders. For dessert, Ana Mirka serves flaky turnovers filled with guava paste and cream cheese, baked until golden brown.
Order a sampling of Habana Blues specialties to go, or eat it after a kayak trip at Paddle Creek.
Corrections: OnlyBurger is stationed at American Tobacco Campus on Thursdays, not Wednesdays. Also, Parlez-Vous Crepe mistakenly included an ‘s’ in the print version of this story.