One | Dish | Indy Week
Pin It

I'm pretty sure my grandmother would have no use for a computer at the dinner table. But if a recent lunch at One offered an accurate sample, she'd be the only grandma without one.

The second venture of Four Square chef/ owner Shane Ingram, the Meadowmont restaurant offers customers iPads on which to view its wine list of about 160 well-priced bottles. The list includes a brief description of each offering. My waiter asked if I'd had time to check my e-mail or Facebook, before leaving me with a more traditional paper menu to select my meal.

The setting for Ingram's new place, which opened in July, is a stark departure from the chef's beloved, and award-winning, Four Square in Durham, which offers upscale New World- and Southern-inspired cuisine in the traditional comfort of a restored Victorian mansion. One, meanwhile, aims to create a modern spectacle at almost every turn.

Bottles of wine gleam from a fluorescent-backlit case near the restaurant's front entrance. Cooks chop and dice under customers' gazes with One's integrated open kitchen and dining room plan (people in a separate room at the bar can catch the show on in-house televisions). And foods are presented on playful white plates.

On the menu itself, a few flashy words appear. Take "croutons" (quotation marks belong to One), for instance, which refers to cubed cuts of pork belly and rock shrimp —part of an appetizer that is served over marinated eggplant and braised cannellini beans ($13), or elixir, which describes a small glass of steamed milk and roasted peanut powder that is paired with a milk chocolate caramel tart ($9).

Between the mentioned starter and dessert, the menu moves from Napa cabbage rolls ($10) and steamed mussels frites ($11) to eggplant lasagna ($14), stewed tomato farro linguini with braised duck ($17), a handful of pizzas ($14) and larger plates like braised beef short rib ($22) and herb-rubbed red snapper ($24). All of the dishes are prepared with Ingram's trademark flair and attention to detail, and the pair of pizza offerings is superb. The crust, prepared in One's brick oven, is thin and crisp. The toppings, like an Italian sausage and basil pizza with tomatoes, roasted garlic marinara and mozzarella, are simple and delicious, making for an unexpected place to grab a solid slice of pizza.

Related Locations

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

INDY Week publishes all kinds of comments, but we don't publish everything.

  • Comments that are not contributing to the conversation will be removed.
  • Comments that include ad hominem attacks will also be removed.
  • Please do not copy and paste the full text of a press release.

Permitted HTML:
  • To create paragraphs in your comment, type <p> at the start of a paragraph and </p> at the end of each paragraph.
  • To create bold text, type <b>bolded text</b> (please note the closing tag, </b>).
  • To create italicized text, type <i>italicized text</i> (please note the closing tag, </i>).
  • Proper web addresses will automatically become links.

Latest in Dish



Twitter Activity

Most Recent Comments

Matzo Ball Soup at Lucky's Deli! I never go that there aren't people around me eating it. And, I have …

by DonnaL2 on Soup for You: Welcome to DISH, the INDY’s Tri-Annual Food Special (Dish)

Am looking for a Chiniese restaurant that serves shrimp and lobster sauce, it was there speciality. Was on Hillandale Road …

by NancyLSullivan on Unpacking the Great Pho Appropriation Debacle of 2016 (Dish)

Y'all totally missed the mark by not including Short Winter Soups in this spread. They've been around for 5-6 years, …

by suzybell8 on Soup for You: Welcome to DISH, the INDY’s Tri-Annual Food Special (Dish)

Some of us Brits appreciate it. I even wrote a whole column on Brunswick Stew! Thanks for this piece, really …

by Nic M on How North Carolina Does Brunswick Stew Right (Dish)

Waraji, yes....I can't believe Sushi Blues and Cow Fish made the list. Harris Teeter has better sushi that these both …

by Michael Anderson on The best sushi in the Triangle (Dish)

Comments

Matzo Ball Soup at Lucky's Deli! I never go that there aren't people around me eating it. And, I have …

by DonnaL2 on Soup for You: Welcome to DISH, the INDY’s Tri-Annual Food Special (Dish)

Am looking for a Chiniese restaurant that serves shrimp and lobster sauce, it was there speciality. Was on Hillandale Road …

by NancyLSullivan on Unpacking the Great Pho Appropriation Debacle of 2016 (Dish)

Most Read

No recently-read stories.

Visit the archives…

© 2016 Indy Week • 201 W. Main St., Suite 101, Durham, NC 27701 • phone 919-286-1972 • fax 919-286-4274
RSS Feeds | Powered by Foundation